Home » Beyond Brooklyn

Wilmington Where?

By on in Beyond Brooklyn
Valley Craft Ales in Wilmington, VT, has the feel of an old-time ski lodge with beers, pizza, and live music in one of the oldest, historic buildings in town. ©Mark D Phillips
Valley Craft Ales in Wilmington, VT, has the feel of an old-time ski lodge with beers, pizza, and live music in one of the oldest, historic buildings in town. ©Mark D Phillips
For almost 25 years, I  thought Wilmington, Vt., was a one-stoplight town in the way on my way to Mount Snow. I always drove into town, turned right at that light and never once even slowed down, let alone stop. 
 
That changed this weekend. In my effort to travel on the New England Masters ski-racing circuit in an old-style way, keeping costs down while traveling alone, basically looking for those ’70s- and ’80s-type cheap motels in which a single is willing to stay.
 
Perusing hotels.com, looking for somewhere inexpensive to stay in striking distance of Stratton Mountain for the prestigious Janeway Cup, I found the Inn at Valley Craft Ales in Wilmington. Located within the former Old Red Mill, one of the oldest buildings in town, right on the Deerfield River, it looked like something out of The Shining.
 
When I walked in, I was struck by the immense space — a large bar, dining room, a seating area around a large fireplace, and a lit stage with dance floor. A staircase led up to a central hallway containing 16 rooms, with only two for more than single- or double-occupancy. They are basic rooms, each with a bed and a bathroom, a true ski lodge for people like me. All I need is a room to sleep in and a short drive or bus ride to the slopes.
 
Owners Travis Charlow and Justin Maturo took over the space 14 months ago when they decided to open Valley Craft Ales. The Old Red Mill was a hopping place in the ‘70s, on the way to Mount Snow with prime rib, a salad bar, and long- term rentals upstairs. Under the new ownership, the rooms are no frill and give you access to the magnificent space that puts most hotel lobbies to shame. Sitting at the windows looking out on the Deerfield River while checking email and working was a pleasure. 
 
“The goal is to keep these rooms affordable,” said Justin. “If there’s anybody cheaper than we are in the valley, it’s only one or two. We’ve had a couple people complain about no TVs, but we want people out enjoying what the area has to offer and not hanging out in the rooms.”
 
On Friday night, I sat at the bar trying an assortment of pilsners, talking with locals and skiers who were doing the same thing as I was. I ordered one of the specialty pizzas, the Soppressata, covered in San Marzano, mozzarella, sweet & picante soppressata, olives, onions and sliced cherry peppers with the thinnest, crispiest crust I have had in ages. Watching the process in the kitchen was magical in a space where over a hundred pies are served on a normal weekend night. Matching the pie with the Mountain Girl Vienna Lager and a Feta Di Casa Italian Pilsner was a culinary success.
“Our thing which kind of grew between us is about keeping our beers approachable,” said Justin. “We’re over the IPA thing, we like the lagers and pilsners. We are making beers that you can drink without falling off your stool.”
 
“I love our beers,” said Travis. “It’s a beer for everybody and we’re trying to convert everybody to drinking beer. We’re all over the lager and pilsner scene, it makes us feel good when we drink a nice crispy beer and watch other people enjoy them too. I feel it’s the exact opposite feel of most other breweries in the state where you get eight IPAs thrown in your face.”
 
What’s the beer they want to bring back? They weren’t pilsners or lagers which surprised me…
 
“Do you know Christina Tosi?’’ asked Justin. “We did an IPA where we soaked Fruity Pebbles in oat milk and then added the oat milk to the beer and the Fruity Pebbles to the mash and used like very fruit forward hops.I would love to do that one again.”
 
“I know we’re talking about approachable beers, but we did a 12.5 percent pretzel stout,” said Travis. “It was these pretzels that had been in the kitchen that were about to be thrown out. So we ripped up the pretzels and tossed them in the mash, we added liquid chocolate, liquid caramel, some sea salt and called it the the Figure Four Leglock. Didn’t drink like a crazy 12 1/2 percent stout, it was approachable, it was delightful and you could only have 15 ounces before I cut you off.”
 
When the New England Masters Ski Races at Stratton were canceled due to rainy weather, I found myself with a free Saturday to explore the charming two-stoplight downtown. It was twice the size I expected.
Wilmington, VT, has survived two catastrophic floods in 1938 and again in 2011. The water line from 1938 is painted on Town Hall. 2011 was even higher. ©Mark D Phillips
Wilmington, VT, has survived two catastrophic floods in 1938 and again in 2011. The water line from 1938 is painted on Town Hall. 2011 was even higher. ©Mark D Phillips

Vermont charm and resiliency

Maple Pecan French Toast Casserole at Dot's Restaurant in Wilmington, VT. ©Mark D Phillips
Maple Pecan French Toast Casserole at Dot’s Restaurant in Wilmington, VT. ©Mark D Phillips

The town has recovered from its near-decimation when the Deerfield River flooded the entire area in 2011 during Hurricane Irene. It was the second time the downtown had been inundated, the first by the hundred-year flood of 1938, marked on the wall of Town Hall and at the Route 9 bridge. That epic flood was topped 73 years later by Irene, with the water over a foot higher. Travis pointed out the water line on the main floor walls, still visible more than a dozen years after the latest flood. I stopped for breakfast at Dot’s Restaurant located on the opposite bank of the river next to the route 9 bridge. The restaurant was destroyed by the flood, knocked off its foundation and it became a symbol to the town. The owners almost gave up, reluctant to rebuild. But the town came together and with fundraising, donated services, loans, and grants, Dot’s returned to Main Street and Wilmington turned a corner.

West End Used Books has an actual Yurt full of books and collectibles behind their house full of records, books and toys all presented in themed rooms. ©Mark D Phillips
West End Used Books has an actual Yurt full of books and collectibles behind their house full of records, books and toys all presented in themed rooms. ©Mark D Phillips

The Main Street beyond Dot’s is a collection of eclectic shops and historical structures that give the town its early American vibe. The downtown contains a new Book store, Bartleby’s Books, an independent bookstore since 1989, with a selection of fun items and a wealth of many book reviews attached to the bookshelves. There is also an old book store and vinyl shop, West End Used Books, that has an actual Yurt full of books and collectibles behind their house full of records, books and toys all presented in themed rooms.

Walking through The Fashion Plate was like a Connecticut estate sale in a ski house. ©Mark D Phillips
Walking through The Fashion Plate was like a Connecticut estate sale in a ski house. ©Mark D Phillips

The surprise business was The Fashion Plate, which I told the owner reminded me of an estate sale in Connecticut. The beautiful house-style consignment and repurpose boutique features items you would find in an elegant home. I chose a wooden cigar box from the 1920s that captured my fancy.

 
“Ninety-five percent of our consignments come from Boston, Connecticut and New York,’’ said Kathie Costello, shop co-owner with Suzie Kingman.
 
“They’re second-homeowners,’’ she said, “and the wonderful thing about them is they have very expensive, beautiful things. They bring it and they also shop. They all like the thought of recycling. Recycling is important to them.”
 
 

Wilmington - summer and winter destination

Every business owner told me the summer crowd is very different from the winter folks. The businesses were steady with customers on a bad Saturday skiing day.
 
“The winter people are all small, athletic, in a hurry, and not very interested in what we have to say,” said Suzie. “They want to do their thing and be gone. The summer people are more leisurely, from all walks of life. A lot of Europeans who fly into New York and take weekend trips to Vermont.”
 
“We’re more like a clothing country store without the pot-bellied stove,” said Costello. “Everybody asks us, ‘Where should we go to eat? What do people do? We don’t have movie theaters, we have to travel off the mountain to hospitals.”
 
“The summer crowd is less city,” said Justin Maturo. “Route 9 is a big piece of our success in the summer. You get a lot of walking traffic in town. A lot of day trippers.”
 
“Everybody loves the outdoors and that’s why they’re all up here,” said Travis Charlow. “We’re not in a spot where you’re just driving up here just to drive here. There’s so much to do here.”

They are also home to two dispensaries with one, Matterhorn Apothecary Vermont, directly across the street from VCA. Co-owner Matty Horn told reformer.com that “All the renovations were done “in-house” using locally sourced wood” and they have created a unique gift store that is eye-catching, much more than a dispensary. Matty owns the business along with his parents, Matt and Ronnie Horn, and his girlfriend Alicia DeWire. His family has owned a second home locally since 2002 when Matty attended Mount Snow Academy.

Matterhorn Apothecary Vermont is directly across the street from VCA with an eye-catching display in its eclectic location of Wilmington, VT. ©Mark D Phillips
Matterhorn Apothecary Vermont is directly across the street from VCA with an eye-catching display in its eclectic location of Wilmington, VT. ©Mark D Phillips

On Saturday night, Valley Craft Ales hosted Saints and Liars as part of their Winter Concert series. The Vermont-based band led by lead singer Jed Hughes blends folk, bluegrass and rock-and-roll.

 
The band, which began in 2012, gained a following as “Vermont’s roadhouse roots band” on the nightclub circuit around Killington and Ludlow. On an upward trajectory when COVID stopped live music, the band took the opportunity to write and record their first studio album, “These Times.” Most of the songs were written by Hughes, who sings lead vocals, along with bandmates Mike Farkas on resonator guitar and vocals, Chris Rogers playing electric and string bass, and Nolan Rolnick on drums. They were joined at VCA by Jeff Poremski, better known as Primo, on electric guitar.
 
Saints and Liars lead singer Jed Hughes at the Vermont Craft Ales' Winter Concert series in Wilmington, VT. ©Mark D Phillips
Saints and Liars lead singer Jed Hughes at the Vermont Craft Ales’ Winter Concert series in Wilmington, VT. ©Mark D Phillips
 
In the intimate, yet over-large space at Valley Craft Ales, you could sit at the bar on the opposite end of the high wood-beamed room with a great quality of sound coming from the stage. When the band finished their last song and the restaurant closed at 10 p.m., the commute to the room upstairs was the perfect ending.